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What do I need?

Today, the amount of skin products available is overwhelming.  Even as an aesthetician, when I go into the drugstore and happen to walk through that aisle, I'm astounded.  So, how do you make the right choices and what's really necessary?

The Choices:

More and more, I'm choosing natural over chemical.  Check the label.  A good rule of thumb is this:  if the ingredient list is more than an inch long and contains words you can't even pronounce, you probably don't need it.  Especially if your skin is sensitive or you have allergies. 

In general, the types of skincare available fall into these categories:

Traditional products contain fragrance, dye, chemical additives, and preservatives. 

Botanical lines that are plant based.

Treatment lines, which are specifically geared towards skin issues like acne, aging or rosacea.

Natural lines, which contain no "chemical" preservatives or additives, chemical fragrances, added dyes or fillers.  (And please check the label, since just saying something is natural doesn't guarantee it.)

And, lastly, organic product which takes natural a step further by only using ingredients that have been grown without the use of pesticides, fungicides, etc.  (Again, please make sure all ingredients are organic as labeling can be confusing.)

Now, there are two other distinctions in product:  over the counter and professional. 

Over the counter is product you can buy at the drugstore, supermarket, department or specialty store; whereas professional product is purchased through an aesthetician, spa, or doctor's office.

The benefit of using a professional product is that you are choosing something that has already been chosen by someone who knows their stuff, has the knowledge to check out the ingredients and their efficacy.  In my case, I take it a step further and actually use products first before selling them.  That way, I know what they feel like and how they work.  This way, I'm the guinea pig -- not you..

Now, I'd like to point out that just because product is professional doesn't mean that it's going to be more expensive than what you find at the supermarket or the drugstore.  This is a total misconception.  There are professional products that are inexpensive and ones that are very expensive, just the same as over the counter products.  Sometimes, clients are surprised at the affordability of products that I offer -- even those that are organic.

Okay, so now you know what kinds of products are out there in the general sense, so we'll move on! 

The Parameters: 

It's important to know your skin type -- which is best assessed by a professional aesthetician.  I say this from experience, since I find that many of us are not really familiar with or educated about the definition of a skin type nor what that skin type requires.  You see, when an aesthetician tells you your skin type, she'll also recommend what will work best for your skin type. 

For example:  clients often tell me that they have unusually large pores (when they don't) and they don't know what to do about it.  Or, people who have oily skin will want to use a scrub, which could tend to excite their oil glands to produce more oil.  I cannot emphasize more how important it is to use the right product for your skin.  When you do, it's amazing how well your skin will respond.  Afterall, your skin is as smart as you are!

With the knowledge of your correct skin type in hand, now we can talk about basic necessities. 

The Basics -- Cleanse, Tone, Nourish, Moisturize:

A good cleanser:  Skin type appropriate.  If you're sensitive, then the less ingredients, the better.

An effective serum:  This goes under the moisturizer and works as an ongoing treatment adding vitamins, hydration, oil control; specifically targetting those areas you want to work on. 

A day moisturizer:  Something that works well with your foundation -- if you wear it.  This may or may not contain sunscreen.

Sunscreen.

Night moisturizer:  For those of us who have mature or dry skin, a night time moisturizer may be heavier and more moisturizing than a day cream.

Viola!  And that's it!  The basics! 

Many of the women (by women I mean those over the age of 35 -- maybe even 40) who come to see me for a facial treatment have never had one before.  Ladies:  We have to realize that taking care of ourselves enables us to be better caretakers and that we can't wake up at 59 and want to make up for all the years that we didn't do anything to help ourselves!  After the facial, these same women are amazed how different they feel.  The benefits of having a facial go way beyond the idea of pampering.  These benefits include:

1.  Increased liquid tissue flow, i.e. blood, to the facial skin which brings nourishment and takes away toxins and debris. 

2.  Deep cleansing of the pores boosts the skin's ability to take in hydration and vitamins and also helps the pores to remain smaller and tighter.  Think of it this way:  the pore is like a grocery bag.  When empty, it's flat.  When it's filled, it's stretched out to it's largest size and then can't fit anything more in it -- no matter how good it is for you.

3.  Deep exfoliation aids in exposing newer cells and that makes our skin look bright and healthy.

4.  All of the above plus facial massage aids in the body's production of elastin and collagen, which helps with the skin's aging process.  Elastin is responsible for the skin's elasticity and collagen plumps the tissues, allowing for firmness.

5.  Time on the table equals destressing down time and helps us to feel better.

If you can manage it, it's a good idea to have a professional facial every 4 - 6 weeks.  If you can't, try to have one at least once per season.  What's more -- if you've never had a facial before and you mention this article, I'll give you a $10 gift certificate towards that first facial to get your started! 

Acne, still prevalent after all the skin care research available today, is a troubling and oftentimes difficult problem to cure.

It's important to deal with this skin disorder as soon as you can as it can proliferate and cause even more problems like scarring, hyperpigmentation and distended pores -- not to mention a systemic infection if left untreated.

Here are a few tips that I offer my clients:

First, the don'ts :)

Don't Touch That!

Most importantly, keep your hands away from your face.  Picking will not help the situation, in fact, it will worsen it.  Your fingers touch a lot of things, like doorknobs, that are literally teeming with bacteria.  Combine this with an open wound and you're in hot water.  This is especially important for people in school and those who go to the gym.

Suggestion?  Wash your hands when you can and certainly when you get home.  Try carrying hand sanitizer in your school or gym bag. 

Hang That Hat Out to Dry

That's right -- hats that sit on your forehead, like baseball caps, collect sweat and other debris.  Wash that hat -- or replace it periodically.

Bang Thang

If you have oily hair and/or oily skin and breakouts on your forehead, try pulling your hair back whenever you can to give your forehead a rest.

Scrap the Scrub

Scrubs are not a good idea for people who have acne.  Those abrasives are stimulating your skin [read:  oil glands] and causing more sebum to be generated.  Definitely not wanted.  Also, if you're using a scritchy scrub it can cause micro tears in your skin that can allow the bacteria that's being moved around to invade new places. 

Left Out to Dry

Oftentimes, acne sufferers will try to dry out their skin, thinking that this will inhibit oil production.  Actually, it can have the opposite effect.  Skin needs hydration, so when you over dry your skin, guess what happens?  That's right, your skin makes more oil, so you dry it out again, and it produces more, and so on and so forth...

Bar the Bar

Forget bar soap which can harbor and spread bacteria.  Go for liquid soap instead.

Not So Hot

Long, hot showers are definitely not a good choice for acne sufferers.  The heat can excite your oil glands causing greater production.

Now, some good choices: :)

Pro Anti

Try using an antibacterial cleanser.  For those of you who are organically minded, lavendar and tea tree oil are both antibacterial agents, so you can find cleansers with those ingredients.  I stock an excellent cleanser by Farmaesthetics.

Get Professional Help

Seek out your local aesthetician who will be able to help you care for your skin properly.  An aesthetician has many tools to help you break the break out cycle, can exfoliate and cleanse your pores in a way which is not possible at home, and can differentiate different types of acne so that you can be directed to a dermatologist if need be.

Your skin, like the rest of you, is intelligent and can be rejuvenated.  Reach out for help and you will find answers.  Most aestheticians will be happy to offer you a complimentary consultation to answer your questions.  Seek and you shall find.  The reward?  Your own beautiful smile. 

Giving you the skinny on the thick!

I highly recommend liquid soap over bar form.  Bar soaps can harbor bacteria, which you then spread onto whatever part of the body it contacts.  Now, if you share the bar, the consequences worsen.  When you use liquid soap with a pump dispenser, you are not contaminating the soap within the bottle.  This adds up to a cleaner you, especially if you have breakout problems.

Contamination issues are present whenever you use a product that requires dipping (and double dipping!).  Best to wash hands before putting your fingers in that jar, cake, etc.  This applies to all things including moisturizer and makeup.  On a relative note, it's not advisable to pump the mascara wand in the mascara tube as this may also create contamination problems.

So, to summarize:  it's best to use a liquid soap at the sink or in the shower.  Your skin will thank you with its healthy glow!

Yes, for people with dry or lifeless skin.  One to three times per week at most, cut back if your skin begins to feel taxed. 

No, for people with breakouts or oily skin -- the friction may excite your oil glands causing the production of yet more sebum.  As far as those with active breakouts, you may be moving that infection around your face to new sites. 

Lastly, make sure that the "scrub" material is not sharp, i.e. made from fruit pits, or you can cause micro tears in your skin, thereby making the transfer of pimples easier.  Look for words like "beads" or substances like oats, corn meal, etc., which are create friction but are relatively soft.