I just got back from a mid-winter break. My wife and I took a week to get away from the snow and cold and just kind of cruise down the east coast with no real schedule or purpose, just to relax. Oh yeah! We did see a couple of our kids along the way, but the main purpose was just to see something besides white!
We drove down through Washington, D.ebt C.entral and once south of
Fredericksburg, Va., I told my wife I was going to get off of the
Interstate and take the old roads into the coastal areas; I call it
Interstate 000 or Interstate Zero. Interstate highways are great if all
you are interested in is getting from point A to point B as quickly as
you can or if you are looking for a fast food joint to stuff your face.
However, if you want to see the real U.S. of A., you need to get off of these concrete landing strips and take the old roads, the ones with a 55 MPH speed limit and wander through real towns filled with real people. One of these magic roads is U.S. Route 17 which basically parallels the east coast and was once a major travel route along with U.S. Routes 1 and 301.
Beginning near Fredericksburg, Route 17 will lead you southeast through the "peninsula country" of eastern Virginia through flat agricultural areas sleeping quietly this time of year waiting for the sun to spark the new life of spring in just a few more weeks. If you look at a map, you will see very easily why this area is referred to as peninsula country. It is comprised of three huge peninsulas beginning just south of the Chesapeake Bay and ending south of the James River near Virginia Beach.
I remember when I traveled these states as a textile salesman years ago and would smell the "burn off" of these fields. The farmers would light a fire on the downwind side of a field to burn off all the rubble left over from the last harvest. The flames would slowly burn into the wind clouding the air with clouds of white smoke that you could see for miles and smell from even farther away.
From here, Route 17 will take you into the "plantation country" as it is referred to by the locals. In this area, particularly on the lower peninsula, you will see signs that lead you to historic low country plantations dating back into the 1700's, some open for tours that are very educational and enjoyable.
When you near the Virginia/North Carolina border on Route 17, take note of the signs for the Great Dismal Swamp. This is a little known and very often overlooked feature that too many will think totally out of place. You might think this is a natural feature you would expect to see in Florida or Louisiana. The Great Dismal Swamp is a dense primitive area that is home to all sorts of wildlife and very interesting to visit.
Further south in Eastern North Carolina, 17 will take you through flat agricultural lowlands until you reach the small city of New Bern where you will first experience the transition from growing crops to catching fish. This is Tide Water country or the Low Country of the coastal Carolinas, and the home of Nichols Sparks, the author.
The best way to describe the Low Country is to say that it is the South within the South. When the Arcadians were evicted from Nova Scotia by the English, they were deported to two areas of the United States. One is the well-know group in the New Orleans area. The others were forced to settle in the coastal areas of North Carolina. So Cajun lore and cooking are also rooted in the eastern counties of North Carolina, and if you are aware of this history, it becomes apparent as you learn the local history and culture. Unfortunately, much of the true flavor of the area is being lost to the immigration of "outsiders" who have found this area to be very attractive for retirement plus the military has a strong presence here and has also imported people from other parts of the country.
Next stop, Ocracoke Island.
See you outdoors!
You can reach Dick at rtotino@nycap.rr.com.
However, if you want to see the real U.S. of A., you need to get off of these concrete landing strips and take the old roads, the ones with a 55 MPH speed limit and wander through real towns filled with real people. One of these magic roads is U.S. Route 17 which basically parallels the east coast and was once a major travel route along with U.S. Routes 1 and 301.
Beginning near Fredericksburg, Route 17 will lead you southeast through the "peninsula country" of eastern Virginia through flat agricultural areas sleeping quietly this time of year waiting for the sun to spark the new life of spring in just a few more weeks. If you look at a map, you will see very easily why this area is referred to as peninsula country. It is comprised of three huge peninsulas beginning just south of the Chesapeake Bay and ending south of the James River near Virginia Beach.
I remember when I traveled these states as a textile salesman years ago and would smell the "burn off" of these fields. The farmers would light a fire on the downwind side of a field to burn off all the rubble left over from the last harvest. The flames would slowly burn into the wind clouding the air with clouds of white smoke that you could see for miles and smell from even farther away.
From here, Route 17 will take you into the "plantation country" as it is referred to by the locals. In this area, particularly on the lower peninsula, you will see signs that lead you to historic low country plantations dating back into the 1700's, some open for tours that are very educational and enjoyable.
When you near the Virginia/North Carolina border on Route 17, take note of the signs for the Great Dismal Swamp. This is a little known and very often overlooked feature that too many will think totally out of place. You might think this is a natural feature you would expect to see in Florida or Louisiana. The Great Dismal Swamp is a dense primitive area that is home to all sorts of wildlife and very interesting to visit.
Further south in Eastern North Carolina, 17 will take you through flat agricultural lowlands until you reach the small city of New Bern where you will first experience the transition from growing crops to catching fish. This is Tide Water country or the Low Country of the coastal Carolinas, and the home of Nichols Sparks, the author.
The best way to describe the Low Country is to say that it is the South within the South. When the Arcadians were evicted from Nova Scotia by the English, they were deported to two areas of the United States. One is the well-know group in the New Orleans area. The others were forced to settle in the coastal areas of North Carolina. So Cajun lore and cooking are also rooted in the eastern counties of North Carolina, and if you are aware of this history, it becomes apparent as you learn the local history and culture. Unfortunately, much of the true flavor of the area is being lost to the immigration of "outsiders" who have found this area to be very attractive for retirement plus the military has a strong presence here and has also imported people from other parts of the country.
Next stop, Ocracoke Island.
See you outdoors!
You can reach Dick at rtotino@nycap.rr.com.
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