Keeper of the Flame: My Way Cafe

For better or worse, the 'sleepy' little Town of Malta is soon to be no more. All around you are signs of impending explosion. New bypass roads, earthmoving equipment and Malta has certainly already clinched its entry into the Traffic Circle Hall of Fame.

Chef John Bove has seen all this and more, from his perch at the MyWay Café (Rts. 9 and 67E in Malta. Phone: 518.899.4196.) Construction has been a constant companion since 2005; and while things were not the easiest logistically through the past few years, Chef Bove stuck to what he knew was right to do, a non-pretentious mix of homemade Italian comfort foods and got through those challenging years.

The roadwork is largely completed now, at least what you can see from his front door. So he can officially re-dust off the welcome mat and invite you back to see his place.

It's exactly as you remember, inside and out.

This afternoon Chef Bove was doing the prep himself, like he has done for 25 years at the MyWay; and double that in the business.

Slicing pork loin (no typo, foodies: not pork shoulder) for the homemade sausages. He even takes the time to grind the seeds for these so the customer gets the entire flavor, but none of the hassle, and he individually preps and bakes the Flower Pot Herb breads that people fall for time and time again.

There's some new items that hit the menu; they tinker here and there and maybe once a year something new is added - currently eggplant rollatini is the newest big thing. But when you get it right from the beginning, you don't have to worry about the latest crazes. Like the "all natural" movement: the MyWay has already been there. Look for the return of Chef Bove's tomato gardens now that the construction around him is complete.

To commemorate the 25th year of his restaurant, Chef Bove has instituted a select menu for this entire month with a select menu of 3-course meals at 1984 prices (2 dinners - $25.50 total.)

It's already the second page and I forgot to mention something subtle. The guy's sort of into Frank Sinatra.

Yes, ol' Blue Eyes is 100% on the audio system and the walls are adorned like a museum/shrine. His Sinatra-themed tribute nights with live performances have been a monthly staple even through construction, and reservations for this are highly recommended. (The next one is on Sunday, November 22. Call 518.899.4196 or email reservations@mywaycafe.com.)
Surprise - no franchising plans for Chef Bove. This restaurant is a singular locally-created original oasis that is to be cherished and treasured.